and I 'happened by the hands amplifier ordered the now famous site www.41hz.com , in this case a model AMP6. A friend of mine had started to mount, but in pre-test some details not convinced, so I decided to "have a look." Point out that my friend is just beginning to experience something, to do some welding non-trivial to design and assemble a pretty good.
After a first review, in which I replaced a resistance that had been removed for purposes of measurement, I noticed some inaccuracies that now set before you. First
welds. I never try to write the myriad of links that can take you to the most 'different tutorial on welding (sorry, soldering) on \u200b\u200bthe pond, the type of pool to use the power of the welder, the paste flux or more' appropriate and so saying. I will just say that it takes "a good hand, a good eye and a good nose", as for all experiments in the field of electronics (and I confess that this maxim 'a friend of mine was told by repairman, meaning the good hand to be able to govern the soldering iron, good eye for not committing gross errors, and then the nose is understood as "unused" both in the literal sense, a nose that immediately feels any burning smell!).
Most of the welds were done properly, except for those on the ground floor. Probably the iron was not left long enough on the point to be heated, and the result was a welding surface, irregular, hemispherical shape, which, while ensuring continuity 'power, certainly would not hold the more' modest efforts mechanics. This is because 'the ground plane quickly dissipates heat from the soldering iron, and therefore requires more' time to make a proper weld.
I would say that you can 'categorize definitely in the category of "cold welding", that' those in which the temperature and 'was insufficient to complete merger and amalgamation of the pond and the flux.
Never mind, often enough to heat the soldering to see suck tin metal in the hole, and maybe does not hurt to add some more '.
Different situation for other welding on conventional runways. Here the problem was the excessive amount 'of tin found in some areas of welding, which necessitated the use of desoldering braid.
Judging by the color, the pond and used 'the classic 60/40 to 1 mm in diameter, that is well suited to the majority of the welds. Personally I have had better results using the pool 67/33, 0.5 mm in diameter. especially for SMD components. I noticed that this type of pool uses more 'time to cool down, perhaps because of the melting temperature significantly more' low compared to 60/40, more cooling 'slow and gradual' pay to avoid the occurrence of cracks in the material, which in the long run lead to a degradation of mechanical seal, to be avoided especially with the components' volume.
Welds with tin 67/33 are also noticeably more 'shiny, perhaps for the small amount' of silver in the mix, but this is not completely secure. I am going to try the other alloys, and to experiment in the lead-free soldering. A short
my impressions!
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